Ecuador: September 3, 2006

que tal?

so embarking from quito
the adventure begins (continues?)

the interandean valle dominated by annual agriculture
the only trees seemed to be the introduced pines and eucalyptus
that were planted as wind breaks
under heavy human cultivation since before the incas conquered--let alone the spanish
there is little (if any)native vegatation left
the same forces have also made this region a majorcenter of diversity for a number of crop plants ranging from potatoes to papaya
so much lost---so much gained
??????????????????????????

dropping in elevation
vast banana plantations
when we arrive on the coast it only takes a couple of days to realize that the these sterile triploid fruits are as common in the diet as in the landscape
fried bananas served with everything
dont have to worry about potassium defficiency
happy cells ge all the facilitated transport they need to relocate glucose
excuse the tangent into cell biology---the micro, the macro------

almost a week on the coast
some birding, some botanizing---puerto lopez, ayampe etc.
blue footed boobies, baby pelicans, vermillion fly catcher
went off on my own for a few days-
--hitching rides in the backs of trucks (one of my favorite ways to travel)
dry coastal forest---the greenest things around were the cacti
----hamacas on the beach-----
opuntias, more erythrinas--this time the more drought hardy smithiana---with bright pink, tubular flowers--it took a minute to realize they were legumes

hiking around the paramo near cuenca (4000 m = 13000 ft)
---on top of the world....
parque nacional cajas--beautiful
lots blooming too. valeriana spp. violas, castillejas, a little
gentianaceae who?s name i forget

hitchhike to loja
spent the day at the botanical garden
the medicinal sectin was mostly european stuff that i grow in my own garden---
---a little dissappointing
but the cultivos andinos section was super chevre (cool)--
edible lupins
tree tomatoes
quinoa
yuca---not yucca---the edible rooted euphorb (manihot esculenta)
lots more

another truck ride to the estacion cientifica san fransisco
a german research station in the rugged montane forest of southern ecuador

over shot by an hour--which led to finding a ride in the dark to get back up the road
but it all worked out and flying through the mountains under
the crescent moon was fitting with my sensibilities

stayed there 3 nights
really interesting ecology
there is a depression of sorts in the ragged spine of the andes in southern ecuador
the lower elevation, the poor soils and other factors make this a center of endemism
and going from ridge to ravine reveals some dramatic changes
highlights included
brazil nuts, the ancient fern lineage--ophioglossum, undescibed species of peperomia, lots of orchids inc. oncidiums, pleurothallids, a stellis named after our friend and guide florian werner---stellis floriani;
the unusual conifer that is the namesake of parque nacional podocarpus
the showy monocots guzmania and bomera in the bromeliacea and alstromeriaceae
respectively

a day trip to podocarpus (in the back of a truck) revealed amazing waterfalls, great swim spots and the rare endemic coppery chested jacamar (a pretty bird)

flamenco music in loja
and off to vilcabamba
a travelling companion picked up a cheap guitar
which i played the whole way in the truck--whick led to some interesting looks and waves as we sailed through towns and villages
wind swept hair and smiling faces

a couple more nights in vilcabamba
then heading back north to quito--atlanta--pdx and home at last
thinkng about heading up the east side--through macas to puyo and then
over.
spice the last week up a bit with a combo of jungle and andean highlands

many of you i will see sooner than seems real (from down here)
hasta pronto
t